Santander, Burgos, Madrid, Málaga

As someone who has delusions about her station in life and far more aspirations than I can afford, I naturally decided when I quit work, to quit flying.

I should have been born to the rich families whose offspring went on The Grand Tour overland through Europe. In fact I’ve done The Grand Tour more than once, just on a slightly cheaper budget than rich upper class young men did a few hundred years ago.

So, when it became obvious that I would be returning to the UK from time to time, and far more frequently than I had planned, I rapidly became acquainted with every way under the sun of getting from Málaga to York.

The fastest, the cheapest, the most boring, the worst stations, the longest time hanging around for a connection – I knew them all.

I invariably took the train from Málaga to catch the overnight sleeper from Madrid to Paris, then a train to the port of choice. Similar in reverse.

And when I had exhausted the French ports, I moved onto the Spanish ones. The food at Austerlitz (Paris) station was truly awful, and somehow France had lost the attraction it held for me 30 years ago. Similarly I had lost my French, and when I opened my mouth intending to speak French, Spanish spilled out instead.

So the next combination of routes to be explored was across the Bay of Biscay – rather than the Channel – and avoiding Francia, and using either Bilbao or Santander.


I found an interesting sleeper from Málaga to Bilbao which ran on Sunday nights only. In the other direction it came from Bilbao on Friday night – looked like it was catering for people from el norte to come down to the Costa del Sol for the weekend.

As luck would have it there was a ferry from Santander to the UK on Mondays. I checked out connections from Bilbao to Santander. Extremely tight. Late train? Late bus? = Miss ferry. I employed some lateral thinking and looked up connections between Burgos and Santander. A three hour bus trip. It was now looking do-able.

Burgos, for anyone not familiar with Spanish geography, is halfway between Madrid and Santander. Madrid is sort of in the centre of Spain. That’s helpful yes?

Bus routes, courtesy of Alsa

When you buy a sleeper, you buy the bed for the whole journey. There’s no hot bedding on trains. So to speak. Although I do have a story … but for later.

The cost from Málaga to Burgos was 54.30€ and it left at 9pm. It was cramped though. Six beds in a women-only compartment. It was fine to start with, and then two old dears got on in Cordoba and spent half the night running in and out of the compartment. Not good for sleep.

We arrived in Burgos an hour late around 9am. If I’d taken the Bilbao option I would have been absolutely stuffed and missed the twice a week ferry from Santander (already booked my berth).

I hiked from the railway station to the bus station, which of course was in the process of a refurb. Buy your ticket at the ticket office – but the buses were departing from nearby streets. Oh yes. I’ve been down this road before. There is no option but to ask every single person that you encounter where the bus to Santander will depart from. I used to hate asking stupid questions in my youth, but there comes a point when you realise you either ask the question or you miss the bus.

I did (ask the question). I didn’t (miss the bus). My seat was next to a pleasant elderly Spanish woman, ie she seemed older than me, and we chatted some of the time, and enjoyed the views for most of the journey. The scenery through Cantabria was spectacular. Oh, the ticket cost ten euros.


Santander was beautiful. I grabbed some food. I got the ferry. It was Britanny Ferries. I like Britanny Ferries because you can get cheap cabins. I shouldn’t really give away this whizzy tip, but as none of my regular readers are such cheapskates as me, I doubt it will matter.

The city from the bay

Brittany, being French, works on the same principles as the sleeper trains. You can either have an expensive cabin to yourself, or opt to share with someone else of the same sex. But because – certainly British – women don’t do that sort of thing, you invariably end up with a cabin to yourself for a cheaper price. Wonderful :) Of course, there are always the nail-biting moments just before the ferry leaves and you wonder if someone will suddenly arrive at the last minute. But when they don’t, you have the cabin to yourself.

On the return leg, there was no combination of ferry arrival and sleeper. I needed to spend a night somewhere as it was virtually impossible to get to Málaga in one day.

Burgos. That’s where I would stop. The ferry arrived in the afternoon, catch the bus to Burgos, hole up there overnight, and then a trip to Madrid the next day and onward to Málaga.

I spent more time in Burgos rushing to find the Tourist Information before they closed than anything else. They were amazingly (un) helpful. Spain has two types of TIO. A local one and a regional one, and never the twain shall mix. I found the regional one after walking miles, complete with luggage.

‘Oh just wander down to these streets around here, you’ll find a cheap hotel.’ That’s really helpful. Thanks. I took the map and found a cheap hotel. Hostal Hidalgo. Hotel Nobleman. Not quite. Fifteen euros a night. Nice building. Reasonable room. Just a shame about the thin walls that meant I listened to next door’s marital argument for most of the night.

Nice steps, could do with a lick of paint on the walls

But still, isn’t that what travelling is all about? ;)

Next morning I cleared off for the bus to Madrid. I decided to splash out and get a club class bus (!) Instead of ten euros I think it was a princely 15€. I thought it might go faster, but no chance. It did however have lots of space, only three seats across the bus, and an endless service by a hostess-type of soft drinks, poor coffee, and plastic wrapped Spanish doughnuts. None of which I indulged in.

Arriving in Madrid, I wound my weary way to the southern bus station, had a good wander round and went to buy my ticket. Only to discover the bus I wanted was full and I had to wait until 6pm. Great. That meant minimum arrival time in Málaga was midnight. No buses to my pueblo after 11pm. Partner and dog happily fast asleep 20 something kilometres away at our finca. Hopefully taxis queuing up outside the bus station for people who fail to buy their bus tickets fast enough in Madrid and end up in Málaga after midnight.

The bus finally set off, and was pretty full. Price? Around twenty something euros. We stopped every two hours at a café/bar. While it was tedious to have yet another delay, it was also good to have a leg stretch.

Around 12.30am we arrived at Málaga. The bus station was dead. The surrounding streets were dead. A taxi pulled up and a family of gippos appeared out of nowhere and told me they were FIRST. I didn’t argue. I couldn’t believe how quiet it was. What had happened to Spanish nightlife? It didn’t exist around the bus station. Someone told me it was change over time for taxi drivers. Great.

Some spooky minutes later, one finally pulled up. No gippos jumped in front of me. Naturally being desperate to get in this taxi, I started negotiating the price to my pueblo. ‘It’s 25€,’ he said. I figured that was good and jumped in. And jumped out at the other end, thanking him very much and wishing him good night.

Later, my Spanish neighbours told me 25€ was an extremely good price from Málaga. Ha! That made me feel good.

If I have whetted anyone’s appetite for this exciting journey – forget it. The sleeper between Málaga and Bilbao no longer seems to exist. Sadly. Unless it reappears in the summer. Although going via Barcelona seems to be a viable option!! But not at night.

As for the buses. Everything seems to be run by Alsa these days. So if you want to get a bus in Spain, just key in And the train is Both are available in English.

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54 comments on “Santander, Burgos, Madrid, Málaga

  1. That was a super post…exactly the mixture of forward planning and thinking on your feet that individual travel requires!

    I thought I would have to do a Europe round trip this year….the sleepers I remembered don’t run any more…there are some poncy night trains that cost more than one arm and a leg to ensure no sleep is possible thanks to their entertainment offers and the internal flights don’t let me take the two cases that Avianca allow me cross ocean.

    But, like the bomber, the buses always get through!


    • Thanks Helen. I thought I should prove I have actually travelled outside of Andalucía ;) in the last ten years!

      I do like to do lots of planning – and then I have the flexibility to know how I can alter it. I haven’t changed my approach in 30 years :D

      I dread to think of the cost of a trip around Europe :( Isn’t it awful when the trains you enjoyed have disappeared? It’s not just the Málaga – Bilbao sleeper, I used to get a really cool train up to Madrid that was a stopping train and so much cheaper than the AVE (equivalent of TGV) – and that stopped too. :( It was old, comfortable, and had a great bar with freshly prepared food. Bah! I hate so-called progress.

      The last time I got the Madrid-Paris sleeper train was ok though – however – it was a few years ago now.

      I might add some tales of my other trips, but maybe will be on Clouds as I have no piccies :(


  2. Sounds like some form of punishment. On the subject of fares I have just bagged return flights to Asturias in May for £40 with easyJet! My plan is to visit Leon, Salamanca and Burgos and some other places in between.
    On an equalities note I’m not sure you are supposed to call Romanis gippos anymore!


    • It was good. I enjoyed it. I love the adventure, even at my advanced age :D

      Now, this, really is backpacking. No pre-booking of accommation, no air-con, and sharing with strangers.

      Sounds like a good itinerary and should hopefully be warmish, maybe damp?

      I toyed between, gippos, gypsies and gitanos (my usual choice as after all they were Spanish). But as they jumped out of the shadows, frightened the life out of me, and were rude and nasty, they got relegated to gippos :)


  3. Another really enjoyable post.:-) It’s many years since I did any independent travel to speak of, but when I was much younger I would have revelled in the kind of journey you describe. I’m another fan of Brittany Ferries and we always use them when we go to Normandy. Being a member of their travel club, we get a free cabin on the offpeak sailings and half price on peak crossings. See, I like a bargain too.:-)


    • Thank you, Perp.

      We joined the travel club too. Especially as they do – or did – a deal on hiring out your foreign property which we never got around to taking up. But a year or so later, they really whacked up the membership price and dropped the discounts.

      As I said to Helen, I’ll try and add a few more of the travel adventures betwixt Spain and UK somewhere or other on a blog :D


  4. Great post.. One of the things I am very envious of European countries is the different modes of travel you have available to you.. No ferries or small plane jaunts here. Travel by car is the preferred route. I would love to travel the US by train though.
    Much enjoyed this post!


    • Thanks L. I think the difference in travel in different continents is interesting. There has to be something about new countries v old ones, and rich ones v poor ones.

      The best train trips to me – are Indian ones. Although Morocco was pretty good too.


        • In days back then, they were so olde worlde and exciting. Chai sellers coming up to the window at stations. Sitting on wooden seats for hours with open windows – NO GLASS! Guards on the train with rifles to protect against bandits. It may have changed. But it wasn’t your average inter-city UK train.


  5. Another wonderful travelling post :-) With some lovely pics too :-)
    Carry on with posts like this, I can travel the world without ever having to leave my armchair ;-)
    Thanks for the tip about Brittany Ferries :-) we may need to get the motorhome on them one day :-) We did use them once though many years ago, but a car with four occupants, it cost more than the shorter non sleeper crossings.


    • Thank you V. I had to rescue the pix from another site I posted on years ago, because Hal lost them when he had a hissy fit. That’s why they are small :(

      In fact dear Hal lost a lot of pix, so I will have to be a bit inventive to post more travel tales!

      The Brittany tip about shared cabins is great for single women travellers – note men do not have the same inhibitions and A always ended up sharing a cabin :D

      The travel club discount is Ok as Perp said, but you need to either cross to Europe a lot or like BF a lot for it to be worthwhile. They used to do discounts on meals too, or offer free breakfasts or something. No idea what they do now.

      Sometimes you are better off buying the daily mail or whatever and getting their cheap offer coupons with P&O. Which needless to state I have also travelled….


      • Deary me, that was very naughty of Hal. Are they gone forever, or just buried in his vaults somewhere?
        There’s something to be said about prints/negs, if we lose or mislay them, we’ve usually only ourselves to blame.
        Yes, P&O do have some good deals. Norfolk Lines probably even more so (most of our FODS trips have been with them).
        Our years of family trips to France were always with Townsend Thoreson.


        • I daren’t can’t blame darling Hal :) It was the nasty people who put him together. Or maybe the bad people who exchanged the logicboard when he halfunctioned malfunctioned. I did ask, but they seemed to think everything had gone. No idea if they knew what they were talking about. Would take someone more Hal cognisant than me to work out if they were down in the basement somewhere :(

          Wish they were.

          Snob value here – the food on Brittany when we left the UK was brilliant – and we got to go down to see Paddy and Prince in the Landy too (something to do with us saying we weren’t sure if we had turned something off ;) ) But the last time I travelled P&O was pretty good too. Gotta keep an eye on the offers and it really depends where you want to go.

          I don’t think I would be travelling TT in a hurry. I was on duty for HSE the night of the Zeebrugge disaster :(


  6. you took me right back to my youth in this post! i did all down the coast right into Gibraltar and back up again was very hot a lot of irritable Spanish and absolutely no jobs in Gibraltar thought i was going to starve to death ran out money completely and had to hitch back up the coast to malaga where some kind relative wired me enough money to get a coach all way back to London it was a trip that traumatised me and i was seasoned traveller, the Spanish buses were good value for money though and i only wished i could do it again but with enough money to not worry if i could eat as well as travel :) thank you for sharing take care xx


    • Hi Kizzy :)
      That sounds a familiar trip. Some years ago when we were still in the UK, we did a backpacking trip – Spain, Gibraltar, Morocco, Portugal. But we had enough money to pay bus fares, camp sites and food.
      There aren’t many jobs in Gib now either – so don’t try and do it again!!
      Thanks for the visit, catch you later. x


  7. We’re in the cheapskate bracket too and were delighted with a flight from Porto to Faro for 12.50 euros with Ryanair (I know- where are my principles?). Not even bus or rail could compete with that. I do fancy Galicia though.


    • Great price. And talking to some of the women in the compartment they were saying they’d only got the train to Bilbao because the flights were full and they often worked out cheaper.

      I have to say I’ve never flown either Ryan or Sleazy and I have no burning desire to, despite their prices. I would think Porto to Faro would be pretty pricey either by bus or train. I nearly go the train to Lisboa when we were camping in Olhao but couldn’t tear myself away from the Algarve :D

      I’d like to see more of that northern coastline – and inland too of course – but I suspect it will be a camping trip with dog when we have sorted out our tent situation.


    • Actually, I do find it fun. Far more sense of the unknown, better views of the country/ies you are travelling through, and more interesting ‘encounters’ with people. Helps to be travelling solo as well, you tend to speak to people more and they speak to you.


      • I love the way you travel – I’m an ‘off-the-beaten-path’ kind of gal myself, and while I am not well-travelled (yet!) I have truly enjoyed my adventures. Here’s to authentic (and frugal) ways to pack more joy into the journey! :)


        • It would be cheaper to fly, I can’t deny that. But it would not be half as much fun, so to me it’s a sort of holiday and a way to enjoy the journey. There’s not much you can write about a ‘plane trip is there? ‘I queued for a long time at the airport, the security was a pain, there was a screaming kid behind me who kicked the back of my seat, the food was terrible, – and it was late.’ Or something like that. Actually, I do have a couple of ‘plane tales, but it’s just not the same experience.

          And whereas other people will go for quality hotels, all I want is a clean bed for the night, and enjoy spending – some – money on the actual travel aspect. The most expensive part of my trips were always the cabins for the ferry crossing :( But – I enjoyed that too. Sort of like a mini-cruise! In fact on the Bilbao/Plymouth route they were running a mini-cruise when I made that crossing.


  8. I really enjoyed reading this! You’re not tired after a trip like that?! My husband is in Brittany right now …
    If I for one reason or another were back, living in Europe, I’d never fly again. I’m just fed up with it, it’s no fun anymore. This route I’ve found now with Icelandair is alright though. Otherwise I’d have to go ‘backwards’ to Montreal first, the alternative would be US and I don’t do that.


    • Thanks Reb. It’s tiring in as much as long days on the road, but when you are just sitting gazing at the scenery/snoozing/watching a film, it’s not too bad. The final leg was the drag – I was gutted I’d not been able to get a seat on the earlier bus. I could have stayed in Madrid for the night and got an earlier bus back, but truth was, I wanted to get home. I’m not sure I’d do it like that again, as it really was quite spooky outside the bus station. Forty or fifty people got off the Madrid bus and vanished into thin air!

      I think flying stopped being fun a long time ago, I might be tempted into it to go to Cuba or Latin America though. But there are other places I could visit first. North Africa is only a few miles across the water :)


    • Thanks. Not sure about useful info though these days, wish the sleeper from the north to the south was still running, it was a good route and cheap. And fun. I suppose we can all still work our way around Spain some way or another :)

      Haha to the Brit Ferries bargain!


  9. Great post – I’d always vote for land travel over air, to me it’s part of the experience! Loved taking this journey with you through words..I hate what they are doing to trains now though, I loved train travel in the uk years ago, but really don’t like it now in the sealed airless boxes they jam us all romance at all..


    • Thanks S&C. I too love the experience. It stops it becoming getting from A to B and instead, it’s a whole different adventure.

      My best memories of trains are when I used to go home at weekends from university. Back then, it was the days of individual compartments, lined with wood, and whichever wood was chosen for the compartment had a little inscription plaque in there eg Canadian Pine. Wonderful.


  10. I’ve had a lovely morning at my desk, virtual touring and travelling, imagining my travels if I had the time and money… Speaking of money, has it occurred to you to write a book with all this handy and interesting info in it. I haven’t travelled a lot but I love a guide to get me in the mood & prepare me to a certain extent, as reference while I’m travelling and to keep and flick through… I did have a lovely US train travel experience from LA to San Diego, then up to San Fran… far better than flying or driving. When I’m pension age I shall use my $2 pass to good effect :)


    • Glad you enjoyed your virtual trip from the top to bottom of Spain :) Funnily, I enjoyed writing this post, partly because I like the photos, I enjoyed remembering the trip, and also, it’s a different part of Spain to my usual posts about Andalucía.

      Not much use writing about the sleeper any more as it doesn’t exist! The only value would be in whether or not people found my experiences entertaining and learned from any mistakes I have made. Of which there are a fair few. I’d love to write books – the laugh is I just don’t know how to go about it. I’d prefer to do it for money, but I’m seriously thinking about self-publishing for peanuts at the moment.

      Are planning to emulate Vicky with her bus pass then? :D


        • My parents were fast enough to acquire theirs :)

          Not much to aspire to here in Gib though with bus travel being free for ALL residents. Except for the one that runs from the frontier (although I think that is free for pensioners). No idea if there is anything similar in Spain. If there is they have probably revoked it as part of their austerity measures.


      • Oh, and self publishing… go for it… There must be some info on the ‘net of what to do what not to do and how to do it… I bought 2 x self published hardcopy books on the weekend, and WordPress is a great melting pot of e-authors, and I download quite a few new author e-books to my phone and love reading them :)


        • I’m seriously thinking about it. So much easier than conventional trying to get someone to publish route. Kailash (the Gibraltarian poet) is waiting for his second book to be published and it is taking ages. He paid for the printing of the first one himself :(

          Christian Mihai (mentioned on your good reads sidebar) has written some excellent advice about it and some thought-provoking posts. I missed the chance to get his paid-for books for free when he put them up as an offer over a few days.

          I’ve yet to download a book to read on the internet as I am a sucker for curling up on the sofa (PP, Pippa Permitting) with hard copy. Or even reading in bed. My (Apple) laptop is pretty heavy and I can’t imagine doing the same with it. I also get sick of the screen after a while, not that you would think it the amount of words I spew out :D

          However, I do think e-publishing is a market well worth exploring, and plugging away at. I wonder if I should use roughseasinthemed as a nom de plume?


          • I’m glad you saw Christian’s blog… it has the best advice… and I’ve read all his stuff except The Writer which is on my phone and waiting… I’ll have to think about the nom de plume… I think of you now as Katherine-RoughSeas-Clouds-Pippa-Landy which is a bit cumbersome I suppose?


          • You missed EveryPic!!

            I could use my real name. I quite like it. But I like nom de plumes too :) My FB one is totally different, and I’ve used others on forums.

            I think he is a bit arrogant sometimes, but he does provide excellent advice, you are right there. And for free, even though he is hoping to promote his own books (nothing wrong with self-promotion, I add quickly). What are his books like? He’s written a lot about Jazz. Is it good? I think his English is excellent incidentally. He’s an extremely bright and intelligent young man.


          • I forgot EveryPic… :(

            CM is young yet. We have little in common so his writing is not really my thing across the board but there are highlights…

            But, yes CM’s publishing etc tips are good.


  11. Take a look at the section on self publishing on Amazon’s website; its down the very bottom of the page, the link is something like ‘self publish with us’. If your ebook (in Kindle format) is priced at more than 3$ a copy, I believe you get to keep 70% of sales revenue which isn’t bad as they do all the fullfilment, and the conversion to Kindle. Something like that anyway.

    Most of my European travel has been by train, its so much more relaxing than flying and you can half snooze, read and look out of the window as the world goes by. Fortunately, these days, you can’t travel on an East German train without a ticket!!!


    • Thanks Blu. I really need to do this, so it’s great to get some tips from everyone. We all dream of writing that wonderful novel, but FFS, I wrote for years and got paid for it! Why am I not doing it now?

      ‘Planes were better years ago. Nowadays, I think buses hold the edge unless you can find an old style train.


      • A friend of mine writes historical novels and two of her titles are now available on Kindle through Amazon: ‘The Gift and The Promise’ and ‘A Masterless Man’.

        The former was originally published in hard back, but the publisher cut out huge chunks of the story which the author has now put back into the e-book version. Working with Amazon has been uncomplicated and there have been no hassles in doing so.


  12. Yeah I am hooked. I have a good friend whose late mother is from Madrid and we talk about going to his mother’s homeland. I love how you made the trip low budget. Just my style.

    You gave such great local details that a novice tourist should know I think you should write travel posts always.

    Hope you are enjoying your break ms. looking forward to your return.
    Take care ~


    • Spain is relatively cheap but I’m not sure how it compares with American prices. Maybe dearer? You can always find cheap …

      All my trips are low budget, depending on how you describe it. Camping, cheap accommodation, public transport. Flying would be cheaper from A to B and return, but then it’s no longer a trip is it? Where is the adventure and the fun?

      My travel posts are from the perspective of a 20 something who is now is 50 something and doesn’t realise it. Not sure there is a wide market for that.


      • Certainly there is a market for your perspective ms. I just read where the new 70 is 40, We humans seem to be gaining enough ground in life span.

        I am a low budget kind of person, some say cheap, I say frugal. Your traveling sensibilities play right into my pocketbook.

        I don’t bookmark blog posts but I have this one… for future reference.
        Thanks again for sharing this, ~


        • Haha. At 50 something, think I am 20 something (as above) but often I feel like 70 so perhaps I might be aiming for the right market :D

          I like to mix fun, some adventure, independence, some mistakes because that’s part of the adventure, and getting as much out of it as possible, in all ways. I went to Amsterdam with a university friend, and he dragged me out of bed to go to night clubs saying, ‘come on, we’re not here to sleep’. And when you do sleep, does it matter where? A bed is a bed. I’m comfortable with basic accommodation and basic travelling. And at least you aren’t a target for having your rich worldly goods stolen.

          Thanks for the bookmark comment. If you and your friend do make it to Spain, email me for any advice or whatever.


          • I knew there was much about you i liked because I see this similar thoughts and viewpoints. I agree, I am on the latter end of 50 and I think I am 27. (though true my body does not often feel like cooperating and there is conflict)
            It is truly a state of mind isn’t it?

            Traveling low-ball is the only way to go I have discovered. I did make efforts to try the high end style twice in my life. One was a high end road trip where I rented a 5 star touring coupe for the drive. That was heaven for 10 days. Saw a lot of my country driving through different states, One of my fondest trips but was feeling often out of my realm.

            My idea today would be to have an old with lots of soul vehicle that ran like a champ, a sleeping bag, a camp stove(for anytime coffee) & a map of the national forests throughout the US and just go. No plans other than that. That is on my list and I have no doubts I’ll do this.

            Love to wander and think your friend and you had the right idea about sleeping. Too much precious living can be lost by those hours asleep.

            I will keep your offer in the back of my mind always ms.
            Thanks so much for that. ~


          • Indeed, you express it so well. One age in our mind, one in our body and one in reality.

            I have stayed in some class accommodation, which is why I have no need to do it any more.

            I used to visit London for work and usually stayed with a university friend. One trip I decided not to bother them and stayed at a hotel. It was terrible. It was the first and last time, I went back to staying with my friends.

            We have big plans for making one of our Land Rovers into a camperLandy with a couple of bunk beds. mmmm, dreams eh?

            You know where I am, don’t hesitate.


          • I love the land rover idea to be sure. Just my style. I will definitely have you and your tips in my archived notes when traveling, and if leaving the country check with you & what you may know.

            My curious mind wants to know, ever been here to the states?

            Catching up now on the volley of our comments. I am behind my behind in blogging, also not posting most recent.
            Who has more fun ms? ;-)


          • I have so many untold travel tales. Please do check. i can help re Europe. Poss parts of Asia too. Or Aus/NZ.

            USA? No. Might have done at one point, a few specific destinations, and some offers to visit, but now, no.

            Priorities for travel if we had money would be America Latina, South Africa and other parts of Africa, plus Asia. Anyway we don’t have money so it doesn’t apply.

            Sometimes commenting is as good as posting. That’s part of my summer hours schedule,


          • Hey ms, No USa trip in your future? I will have to come to you then, I feel like there is a bottle of wine meant to be shared in our future. Just is.

            Felt the need to say so ~ Happy Tuesday friend!


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